Remnants of the Lost River: The Saraswati at Siddhpur
This visual essay captures the story, memories, and truth of the legendary Saraswati River in the small town of Siddhpur, Gujarat. It talks about how a river lost in its physical form, still exists and is celebrated by people as an 'imaginary river'. For people, the river, regardless of its physical form, was immortal, but current activities threaten even the intangible form of the river’s existence. It sheds light on the threats and consequences the river is facing in present times, and it raises the question of what the future holds for this mighty river.
Siddhpur, Gujarat
Saraswati in stories
“Mighty, Majestic, legendery and what not,
Such was me ‘ Saraswati’, in a time left behind
Flourishing the thousands, human animals trees,
Oh, our motherly Goddess, all used to call me
For all I hear now is lost, dead and forgotten
Are there no more words to talk about me?”
Personification of River Saraswati as a goddess, Source: Painted by Raja Ravi Verma (1890).
Saraswati in stories
Saraswati is a legendary river that has played an important role in Hindu mythology since Vedic times. The personification of River Saraswati is Saraswati, the goddess of knowledge, music, art, and wisdom. Despite the fact that the river is mentioned and glorified extensively in the Vedas, there is no physical presence of the river in modern India. Saraswati is thought to be one of the major rivers in northwestern India, including the plains of Rajasthan and Gujarat, that flowed from the Himalayan Mountains. Some major tectonic shifts resulted in the disappearance of a long enigmatic river, and the river dried up as the supply from the course was cut off.
Many rivers in India have been debated to be named River Saraswati, and one such river exists in the town of Gujarat. Known as the virgin Saraswati, The river originated in the Aravallis and flowed through Koteshwar until the late 1990s, when the Mukteshwar dam was built, leaving the river completely dry. This river runs alongside some of Gujarat's most important pilgrimages, adding to its mythical and religious significance.
Siddhpur: The Scion of the mighty river
“Treasured, worshipped, seeked and admired,
In a far away land
Lies my heart,
Birthed, cherished and sustained by me long back,
Calls for its lost mother
Standing as the last memory,
Siddhpur the scion of Saraswati”
Siddhpur settled on the banks of Saraswati.
Siddhpur: The Scion of the mighty river
Siddhpur is a prehistoric town located on the banks of this mighty river, and it is responsible for its existence and sustenance. Siddhpur is known as the "Kashi" of North Gujarat. Siddhpur is also mentioned in the Rig Vedas. Siddhpur is also known as 'ShreeSthal,' or a "pious place," and was previously known as Dashu village. Sarawasti is known as the "mother of the town," and she represents timelessness, healing, and renewal. The Sarasvati Purana (a minor puran in Rig deva deficated to goddess Saraswati of hindu mythology) contains information about this location's ancient history. ShreeSthal (present day precinct of Rudra Mahalya temple), is considered the most sacred site in Gujarat's 'Saraswat-Mandal' by the Puranas.
According to the Bhagvata Purana, it is associated with Kardama rishi (son of Manu), who had his hermitage here, as well as Kapila Muni, who was born on the banks of the sacred Saraswati River.Sidhpur is India's only location where matru-shradh is performed. Thousands of people flock to the banks of the Saraswati River each year to perform rituals for their mothers who have passed on to the other side.
The Saraswati Purana describes all of the sacred sites and holy places associated with Sidhpur. Furthermore, the work contains historical data that aids in the reconstruction of religious/cultural history. The town is a revered destination surrounded by temples, kunds, ashrams, and other sacred structures associated with the river's religious identity.
The past and the present of the river in the town.
The past and the present of the river in the town.
Maharishi Kapil on the banks of Saraswati, Source: Triple O studio, Chennai.
Picture of the exiting dry riverbed, Source: Sanika Divekar, Reminiscences of the lost river.
Remains of the lost river“Little do they know, now more than ever
I have been most Alive and Dead together
In the stones, In the Steps, In the sand
They have made me mortal for the time
In the stories, In the ceremonies, In the prayers
They have made me Immortal for life”
The Tangible Heritage
The physical remains of the river form the river's cultural heritage, and the community and faith in the river thrives through it, keeping the river alive. The legacy of temples, kunds, ghats, and ashrams is seen as an expression of religious devotion and energy to be passed down to future generations. The entire townscape of Siddhpur is flanked by major religious structures that rely on the river for daily rituals.
Rudra Mahalaya was a magnificent Shiva Temple with intricately carved 'Toran' (a gateway commonly of wood but sometimes of stone consisting of two upright pillars carrying one to three transverse lintels that is often minutely carved with symbolic sculpture and serves as a monumental approach to a temple) and a flight of steps leading to the Saraswati River. There are numerous other temples in the area, including Bhramandeshwar temple, Siddheshwar mahadev temple, ardeshwar temple, vateswar and valkeshwar temples. Kunds, Tanks, and grounds such as Bindu Sarpvar in Siddhpur, Rani ki Vav in Patan, and Saraswati muktidham (cremation Ground) are also associated with the river's history and help visitors understand the river's history and glory on a daily basis. For people acquiring the status of ecological heritage for the town, the current dry river bed serves as living proof of the river's existence.
This Heritage plays an important role in raising awareness and providing value to the otherwise insignificant river, thereby elevating its religious and communal status.
Temples and religious infrastructure related to the river in the town, Source: Magikindia ( in clockwise order, 1. Muktidham, 2. Siddheshwar temple, 3. Bhramandeshwar temple, 4. Bindu sarovar).
Rudra Mahalya: The fountainhead of Siddhpur, Source: Photographs of architecture and scenery in Gujarat and Rajputana, by Bourne & Shepherd, and James Burgess.
The Imaginary River
The flowing water of a river is commonly used to identify and recognise it. The river's essence and entire landscape are also associated with water-based activities, whether functional or recreational. But what happens when a river runs dry?
The town of Siddhpur celebrates its river in a unique way. The lack of water in the river does not diminish its religious significance, and all river-related rituals continue to be performed. Submerging objects in river waters is replaced by burying objects in the river bed, and dipping into river water is replaced by bathing on the river bed. Such ceremonies are held in the belief that the river flows beneath the ground, creating a fictitious river in the culture. The river's intangible life provides a sense of unity and belonging in the community and connects the river's present with its past, keeping it alive.
Graphic depicting worshipping of riverbed as the last remain of the goddess, Source: Madras Inherited.
The impact of this belief had also persuaded authorities to divert waters from other rivers to these grounds in order for rituals to be performed and the river to be preserved.
The town also maintains its relationship with the river by associating it with numerous events and celebrations throughout the year, and by frequently holding activities such as melas and fairs on the river bed. The largest is the Kartik Mela festival.
Celebrations on the riverbed Kartik purnima festival in the month of kartik as per hindu calender (around October-November).
Truth of the Day
“I call out daily, maybe not loud enough,
Begging them to stop, Asking them to not,
Ignored in plain sight, worshipped in the lost form,
Mercy my dear children,
I shout yet again,
Unaware, unwilling to know
Which of these would be my last call to you.”
Depicting multiple problems faced by the river.
The river bed of Siddhpur is currently its most important asset as well as its most neglected and ill-maintained location. The ghats retain the riverbed's religious significance, while the rest of the riverbed faces issues such as industrial pollution and illegal dumping.
Celebrations such as the Kartik Mela festival, which take place on the riverbed, frequently leave it clogged with waste disposal and pollution, with no action taken by municipal authorities. Another issue at hand is urban encroachment. Pilgrimages contribute trash to the river to some extent.
There is a severe lack of awareness among higher authorities about the issues at hand and the gravity of the problems. Due to the negligence and lack of initiative on the part of local governing bodies and municipalities, the people of the town make little to no effort.
Highlights in the media about the River.
Question of tomorrow?
Is it necessary to resurrect a dead river for religious reasons at great expense in terms of infrastructure? Can a river be kept alive in its imagined form indefinitely? Is there any natural way to restore the river?
Is a riverfront required? How can Saraswati be rejuvenated?
There are thousands of questions, meanings, opinions and theories like this which could be based on the case of River Saraswati in Siddhpur. While the approach regarding the preservation or rejuvenation of the river is a question for tomorrow, we can surely establish today that the scenario at present is a concern required to be addressed.
Although the importance of permanent watercourses is frequently recognized, the prevalence, value, and fate of non-perennial and lost rivers and streams that cease to flow on a regular basis are frequently overlooked. Only by determining the cultural and ecological importance of Sarasvati, we can determine whether the river and its ecosystem are worth restoring.
Imagining a healthy balance of culture, traditions, landscape and economy for Siddhpur and Saraswati.
About Ritika Singhal | Water Seekers' Fellow 2022
Ritika Singhal is an architect and independent urban researcher who is deeply interested in understanding and designing spaces. Her previous research has focused on water-centric cultural landscapes, and she intends to expand on this theme with additional case studies. She wishes to work in the field of urban conservation and urban design in historic city districts.
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