Sair e Sarkhej : A Poetic Walk-through
This story celebrates the life and times of Sufi Saint Sheikh Ahmad 'Ganj Bakhsh' Khattu. The essence of the story lies in his journey for the quest for 'haq' or truth. The story also weaves around association of the saint with the inception of Ahmedabad and the architectural marvel that Sarkhej Roza evolved. Legend has it that the the unique water heritage of Ahmad Sar lake which was just a pond earlier was the sprouting seed for the royal necropolis of Sarkhej Roza. The most dynamic attendees of the Sufi edifice as one can always observe are the children for whom this story is rooted. Keeping in mind the readership the story depicts playful illustrations to engage the young enthusiasts with the exquisite cultural water heritage. (The story and poetry have been conceptualized by Saif Siddiqui and illustrated by Raja Biswas.)
Sarkhej Roza, Ahmedabad
A child was born to an aristocratic family of Delhi in 1338 and named Malik Naseeruddin.
Mystery surrounds early life of Malik Naseeruddin. Legend has it that he was separated from his parents being trapped in a sudden dust storm.
A passing caravan noticed the young boy and carried him along. He was brought to Sheikh Abu Ishaq, at Khattu a small village near Nagaur, Rajathan, who was Head of the Maghribi Order of Sufism in India.
Sheikh Abu Ishaq or Baba ishaq as he was fondly adressed invested the boy in theological studies of the Maghribi order. He won the respect of many in the circles of Delhi nobility and came to be known as Sheikh Ahmed.
All was going well until the news of the sad demise of Baba Ishaq was broken to Sheikh Ahmed. He immediately locked himself in a room with a jug of water and some dates to observe a 40 day penance for his mentor and guardian.
He then undertook a journey to the heartland of Islam. It was from his meetings with divines in Mecca and Medina that he gained spiritual enlightenment for which he later became renowned.
On his return to India, Sultan Zafar Shah requested the dervish to stay at Patan and counsel him for his new kingdom.
Sheikh Ahmed Khattu was an important counsel of the Sultan Ahmad Shah who asked for his guidance in establishing a new capital for his kingdom. Thus the prosperous city of Ahmedabad came to life.
With the Sultan’s permission the Sufi saint reclused to a nearby village of Sarkhej which was famous across the globe for its indigo dying and its community of weavers.
Sheikh Ahmed started gaining popularity among the masses. Sarkhej had now become a centre for Sufi learning and meditation. His Khanqah (monastery) was known to serve food daily at all times. This is when he earned the title of ‘Ganj Bakhsh’ or the bestower of wealth.
Upon his death in 1445, the reigning monarch Mohammad Shah ordered a mausoleum to be built in honour of the great Sufi saint along with a mosque. The construction of this Roza was completed by Qutbuddin Shah in 1451 AD.
Stone lattices or Jali were extensively used in the form of beautiful mandalas which helped to keep the inner environs of the Roza cooler providing an escape from the harsh heat of Ahmedabad.
All the successors contributed to the architecture of Sarkhej. Sultan Mehmood Begadha completed the complex by excavating a tank and adding a number of pavilions especially the King and Queen’s pavilion and a private mosque. Sarkhej now became a place for repose and a resort from summer for the royal family.
The Sultan also built a mausoleum for himself and his family opposite to the saint. A lot of prominent personalities chose Sarkhej as their final place of resting due to the divine aura of the Sufi’s roza.
But Sarkhej remains neglected. The vicinity of the Roza has seen growing urban development resulting in lower water tables and a dry Ahmed Sar lake for most parts of the year.
Credits
About Saif Siddiqui
Saif Siddiqui is a Heritage Manager currently associated with the Aga Khan Trust for Culture at Hyderabad. He is an alumni of Centre for Heritage Management, Ahmedabad (2020) and Department of Architecture, National Institute of Technology, Bhopal (2014). Being born and brought up in the cultural city of Bhopal he developed an interest in Urdu poetry which he often uses as his medium of expression such as the following story. Saif is a passionate heritage professional he likes to discover the linkages between the tangible and intangible.
About Raja Biswas
Raja Biswas is a New Media Designer and an experimental visual artist currently based in Germany. He is an alumnus of National Institue of Design, India (2019). He has over 10 years of experience in painting. He is passionate about experimenting and exploring many mediums which includes creative coding, generative art, fractal art and phygital visulisations.
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