Tourism and Traditions of Faith

This narrative draws from insights collected during an all-women’s expedition working on tackling plastic pollution in the Ganga River. To determine the extent of pollution in the Ganga, a group of 12 women carried out five different methods at ten locations from Devprayag (upstream, near the source of the Ganga) to Kankhal (a village near Haridwar). The study commenced with on-site methods that included community-based interviews, collection of samples for water quality testing, and land-based methods which were conducted on-site, while parallelly documenting people’s associations with the Ganga. After the on-site techniques provided the scientific data, physiographic analysis and a narrative were used to determine the causes of the deteriorating condition of the river.  The narrative documents five sites - Devprayag, Muni ki Reti, Triveni ghat in Rishikesh, and Hari-ki-Pauri, Kangri in Haridwar—that hold historical and mythological significance.

Home to a quarter of India’s population, the Ganga River has many names. Most commonly known as Ma Ganga to Indians and the Ganges to Westerners, it is more than just a river to Indians. For Hindus, the river is considered an extension of Lord Shiva. It is revered as a Hindu deity and is at the heart of Indian culture. While all rivers in Hindu mythology are revered as removers of pollution, the Ganga River is particularly considered to have purifying powers. According to its mention in the Bhagavad Gita, she (the Ganga river) is perceived as divine energy in nature, also called adi-shakti (Singh, 1996). The water of the Ganga is considered sacred and is an essential element in all Hindu rites. She is believed to have the power of salvation — in Sanskrit, referred to as Moksha (Kumar, 2017). It has a fascinating past and numerous mythological tales, but what endures is the reverence with which people still regard the river today, making it one of the most sacred rivers in the world.

Moksha (salvation) can be understood as the ultimate goal in Hinduism. It is the attainment of the ‘highest spiritual state’, the liberation of worldly desires, and the liberation from the cycle of life and death. Hindu rituals and beliefs, serve as guiding principles and pathways toward attaining Moksha, enabling individuals to transcend the limitations of existence. 

 

It is believed that Moksha is achieved when the individual soul (in Sanskrit referred to as Atman) unites the “universal substrate and source of all existence” (in Sanskrit referred to as Brahman) (Basharat, n.d.) In Hinduism, the path of salvation can be achieved in three different ways, following the path of selfless deed (in Sanskrit referred to as Karma Yoga), the path of complete devotion to god (in Sanskrit referred to as Bhakti Yoga), and/or attaining true knowledge and wisdom (in Sanskrit referred to as Jnana Yoga) (Basharat, n.d.). 

While the concept of salvation has remained a constant in Hinduism, the methods to attain it have evolved over time. The practice of worshipping rivers, for example, can be traced back to the Epics and Puranas from around 250 A.D., such as the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. During this period, the focus on attaining salvation shifted towards the path of devotion, known as Bhakti Yoga. This path involved worshipping gods, idols, rivers, and mountains, and it was specifically developed to be accessible to the common people (Raj, 1994). During this time, individuals started praying to various deities, visiting sacred places, and engaging in ceremonies to purify their souls from their sins (Direction: Salvation According to Hinduism, n.d.). Ganga, also known as the river of salvation, holds a significant place in mythological beliefs. According to the legends, King Bhagirathi fervently prayed to Lord Vishnu to secure the salvation of his 60,000 ancestors who had been incinerated by Sage Kapila. Moved by Bhagirathi's devotion, Lord Vishnu granted his request. Ganga was directed to descend to Earth and wash over the ashes of the departed ancestors. However, to mitigate the potential devastation caused by the mighty river's descent, Ganga merged with Lord Shiva, who guided her to gently flow upon the Earth. This divine union ensured the river's controlled descent and allowed it to purify the souls of the departed.

The Ganga River originates from its source river, Bhagirathi, at the Gangotri glacier at a height of 13,970 feet in the Himalayan Mountains of north-eastern India. A source of food and livelihoods, it flows along a length of 1,560 miles (2,510 km), creating one of the most fertile valleys in the world. 

 

The Bhagirathi River becomes the Ganges when it merges with the Alaknanda River at Devprayag. Devprayag is one of the five sites called Panch Prayag, where rivers conjugate with the Alaknanda river to take the form of the Ganga river. In the epic Ramayana, Lord Ram and his father, King Dashratha, performed penance here. This location is thought to have great significance; taking a dip here purifies the soul and brings devotees closer to Moksha. 

Every day, thousands of pilgrims from all over India and the world come to immerse the ashes of their loved ones in the Ganga for their souls to attain Moksha.

 

Water collected at the Sangam (confluence) is believed to be more sacred than water collected at any other place along the Ganga. Pilgrims drink this water to cleanse their souls. They also carry the water to purify their homes and use them in other rituals. 

 

Downstream from Devprayag, the Ganga descends from an elevation of 2,723 ft. to 1,120ft. at Rishikesh before flowing into the Gangetic plains. Known to be the ‘place of sages’, Rishikesh is surrounded by the Shivalik mountain range on three sides and has numerous temples and ashrams along the banks of the river. 

 

Apart from being a holy city on the banks of the Ganga, Rishikesh holds a significant place in Hindu mythology. According to the Skanda Purana, it was part of the Kedarkhand and was referred to as 'Indrakund'. The legend goes that Lord Indra, the king of deities associated with rain, once took a holy dip here to alleviate a curse. Furthermore, it is mentioned in the Ramayana that Lord Rama atoned for killing Ravana, the asura king of Lanka, at Rishikesh. The Lakshman Jhula is also said to be built at the location where Lakshman, Lord Rama’s younger brother, crossed the Ganges (Singh, 1996). 

 

In addition to being a pilgrim center, Rishikesh is also known as the “yoga capital of the world.” The surrounding hills and the flowing river offer a picturesque landscape, attracting both tourists and spiritual seekers alike from around the world. 

While many sites along the Ganga are known to provide atonement, Rishikesh serves as a gateway to that enlightenment. However, it was not until the late 1960s that Rishikesh rose to prominence when the Beatles embarked on a journey to expand their spiritual horizons. In 1968, they made their way to India after receiving an invitation from Maharishi Mahesh Yogi to explore Transcendental Meditation and Indian music. Their stay in Rishikesh proved to be highly influential, inspiring the creation of around 30 songs and marking a remarkably creative phase in the band's history (Beatles Magical Tour of India | Uttarakhand Tourism, n.d.). Following their visit, numerous notable celebrities also flocked to Rishikesh and the ashram in search of spiritual enlightenment and artistic inspiration.

 

Triveni Ghat is the main ghat in Rishikesh and it is believed that the Ganga, Yamuna, and Saraswati all flow at this location. The Ganga aarti, the scenic landscape, and the sunsets create a divine experience for tourists and pilgrims alike. After the Ganga aarti, devotees release flowers and oil-lit diyas into the river as an act of devotion.

Every year around 800,000 metric tonnes of flowers and waste are found in the total stretch of the Ganga, which rot in the river, releasing lead, arsenic and cadmium, as pesticides are used to grow these flowers. The flower pollution causes severe imbalance in the water ecosystem.

The Ganga travels 250 kilometers before it reaches Haridwar. Haridwar, the gateway to Lord Vishnu and Shiva, is where the river meanders into the northern plains, earning it the moniker "Gangadwar" (Government of Uttarakhand et al., 2007).

 

The most significant site in Haridwar is Har-ki-Pauri, which is known for its temples, ghats, and tanks. Har ki Pauri was given its name by King Vikramaditya, who constructed the Brahmakund in the center of the ghats as a tribute to his brother Bhagirath (Government of Uttarakhand et al., 2007).  It is one of India's seven sacred cities in Hindu culture, as well as one of the four locations in the country where the Kumbh Mela and Ardh Kumbh Mela are held every twelve and six years, respectively. The city also serves as a starting point for pilgrims traveling to the Chardham pilgrimage sites of Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri, and Yamunotri. For Hindus, Haridwar is also an important funeral site. It is said that dying on the banks of the Ganga or immersing the ashes of a deceased person will lead to the path of the god’s adobe.  

The Upper Ganga Canal, a remarkable hydraulic infrastructure, was conceived and executed under the British engineer Proby T. Cautley. Originating from the Bhimgoda barrage in Haridwar, this canal serves as a lifeline, catering to the water needs of 15 districts in eastern Uttar Pradesh. Initially conceived as a drought-mitigation measure, the canal has surpassed its original intent to stand as an extraordinary engineering marvel. Today, it is one of the most expansive canals in the world (Shah, 2019).

Today, Ganga is in its most deteriorated state, but every day, thousands of Hindus continue to worship the river to cleanse their souls of sins to attain salvation. To them, it remains in its purest form, with the ability to cleanse one's soul of sins. 

 

However, the increased tourism to the traditional pilgrim sites has negatively impacted the health of the land and waterscapes in terms of pollution. Land and water pollution will have solutions once we realize that pollution management is people management and that pollution projects need to focus more on community awareness activities.

 

Moksha Mehta

Moksha recently completed her Bachelor of Architecture at CEPT University in Ahmedabad. She is an EDRC research fellow and part of an all-women research expedition on Tackling Plastic Pollution in the Ganga River. She recently presented a paper titled ‘Investigating the Relationship between Riverine landscapes and Sociocultural Practices: the Case of Sabarmati River, India’ at the 12th International Seminar on Vernacular Settlements (ISVS). This stemmed from her final thesis that focused on mapping the narrative of socio-cultural influence on river ecology change in the Sabarmati River. She is passionate about landscape ecology and urbanism, with a focus on exploring socio-cultural relationships between humans and nature.

 

 

Mansee Bal Bhargava

Mansee is an entrepreneur, researcher, educator, speaker, mentor, and a political observer. With nearly three decades of experience in the built environment, encompassing architecture design, development, planning, management, and governance of large-scale projects, she believes in sustainability and liveability. She is the Founder-Director of WforW Foundation and Research Entrepreneur at Environmental Design Consultants Ahmedabad, where she is deeply engaged in water-related issues and women's matters. She also holds the National President position at the Water Resources Council of the Women’s Indian Chamber of Commerce and Industry leading a network of professional women leaders from the water sector from across the country. 

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Uttarakhand Tourism. Beatles Magical Tour of india: Uttarakhand tourism. Beatles magical tour of India. (n.d.) https://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/blog/beatles-magical-tour-india.